Food trends seem to come at the speed of light nowadays. You hear somebody mention the words “bone broth,” and you think, “Isn’t that just stock?” The next day you hear it mentioned about a dozen times on Twitter, and you read a piece emphasizing that it’s so much more than just stock, and the day after that you hear a story about it on the radio explaining that it has to include vinegar, and you spot it on a restaurant menu and see it in little aseptic packages in the supermarket.
A little part of you continues to think, “Isn’t it just stock?” and wishes everybody would just shut up about it, already. And the whole thing reminds you of why you don’t listen to commercial music radio anymore: Some perfectly catchy tune is reduced to the most annoying earworm ever just because some DJ has no imagination.
Anyway, I don’t think that’s going to happen with another broth I discovered recently. I was flipping through “Soul Food Love,” Alice Randall and Caroline Randall Williams’s new cookbook, looking for ideas, and I saw the most beautiful soup, made of sweet potatoes, kale and black-eyed peas. But the sweet potatoes weren’t in big chunks, like the carrots. They had been pureed with a lot of water, making a beautiful orange backdrop for the chunky soup.
Joe Yonan is the Food and Dining editor of The Washington Post and the author of “Eat Your Vegetables: Bold Recipes for the Single Cook.” He writes the Food section’s Weeknight Vegetarian column.